Learn how fragrances unfold
When a perfume is applied on the skin, its “sound” is not the same all the time. It starts to unfold and comes through different stages, which form so called aromatic pyramid, also known as “olfactory pyramid”. It consists of three notes:
- Immediately after application we feel the top notes. Usually they last from 5 to 10 minutes. At this time, components of citrus, lemongrass, bergamot, lavender or the aroma of the sea breeze predominantly “sound”. Basically, these are the most light components of the perfume.
- When the top light notes disappear, the middle notes or so-called “heart notes” are revealed. They sound longer up to few hours. Usually we can feel flowers, fruits, woody and spicy compositions with the addition of cinnamon, vanilla and so on.
- The hardest notes, by which the perfume trail is recognized, are the base notes. They unfold in 2-3 hours and can “sound” up to 8 hours and, sometimes, even longer. Usually, the most saturated and dense aromatic components come to the fore here.
Learn about the types of fragrances
There are many types of fragrances, you don't need to know all of them, just learn about the most basic:
- Floral. This is the most popular group of women fragrances. Among floral aromas there are floral aldehyde, which include synthetic aromas that do not resemble natural smells (Chanel № 5, Chanel). There are also floral-fruity aromas (Insolence Eau de Parfum, Guerlain), floral-aquatic aromas (Acqua di Gio, Giorgio Armani) and herbaceous floral-green aromas (Chanel № 19, Chanel).
- Citrus. Citrus aromas are very popular in men fragrances. As a base for such fragrances essential oils of lime, lemon, tangerine, bergamot and so on are used (Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic, Guerlain).
- Chypre. They are very bright and recognizable thanks to the bitter woody notes. The components of such perfumes usually are oakmoss, bergamot and patchouli. Chypre aromas are very often combined with fruit, green and aldehyde (Miss Dior Cherie, Dior).
- Oriental. They are easily recognized by the sound of the amber, musk, sandalwood, vanilla and other spices. These are very strong aromas, more suitable for the evening (Opium, YSL).
- Fougere. Lavender, coumarin, bergamot and moss form the basis of the fougere aromas. Wood notes are also clearly heard here (Red Delicious Men, DKNY).
- Woody. These fragrances are close to the chypre and are used for men perfumes very often. Vetiver, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood dominate here (Fahrenheit, Dior).
- Skin. The task of these perfumes is to convey the smell of the skin using both natural and synthetic components. They contain birch tar, vanilla and floral notes (L'Essence de Cerutti, Cerutti).
Distinguish concentration
- Refreshing water (l'eau fraiche, eau de sport) – 1-3% of fragrant substances, last less than 2 hours.
- Cologne (eau de cologne) – 3-5% of fragrant substances, last approximately 2 hours
- Eau de toilette – 6-12% of fragrant substances, last 3-4 hours
- Eau de Parfum – 15-20% of fragrant substances, last 4-6 hours
- Perfum (parfum, extrait) – 20-30% of fragrant substances, last from 8 hours and more.
Choose perfumes by the season and occasion
- Winter
- Summer
- Demi-season
- Casual
- Evening
Train the nose
Practice makes perfect. If you want to become a perfume expert, you should train your nose for it. For instance, you can visit perfume shops and smell perfumes there, ask friends and colleagues about the fragrances they are wearing.
At first learn to distinguish light and heavy fragrances, then classify them as floral, spicy, citrus and so on. If you want make a perfumery your hobby, the great start will be to learn 3-4 new aromas a day.
If you decide to change something in your life and become a professional perfumer, go straight to the schools of perfumery or on perfumery courses. The most popular are:
- International Institute of Perfumery, Cosmetics and Food Flavors (Paris, France)
- perfume factory in Grasse (France)
- Cinquieme Sens courses (Paris, France)
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