Benzoin
Benzoin – the resin that particular trees emit when the bark is damaged – is often used in the perfumery. Usually it is extracted in the regions of tropical Asia, on the Java and Sumatra islands. The fragrance of benzoin by itself is very sweet, vanilla, close to warm balsamic notes.
Benzoin is usually added to smooth the sugary sweetness of the composition, as well as to reduce intensity of synthetic components. Eventually, the fragrance with benzoin starts to sound softer and more natural. Benzoin is very popular in Oriental compositions, especially where you can hear explicit flower bouquets. By the way, benzoin has a great feature to make a perfume more lasting, that's why it is often added to various fragrances as a kind of “aroma fixer”.
You can hear benzoin in the fragrances Candy by Prada, Shalimar by Guerlain, A la Nuit by Serge Lutens and others.
Tonka Beans
Perfumers love this ingredient because of the stunning vanilla notes, which it gives to any composition. Often it is the tonka beans that we “hear” when all the other flavors evaporate. Unlike the usual vanilla aroma, the tonka beans aroma has additional sound of spices, burnt sugar, wood and dust haze. Besides, tonka beans help fix chypre and oriental compositions. Trees, from which tonka beans are harvested grow in South America, on the shores of the Amazon. Besides the absolute of tonka beans, coumarin is also used in the perfumery – the substance that is part of the beans, which is often attributed to intoxicating properties. As a part of aromas coumarin helps create the illusion of the aroma of dried herbs, hay and even tobacco.
Tonka beans aroma is well expressed in the perfumes Dior Addict by Dior, Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens, and legendary perfume Jicky by Guerlain.
Guayak
The perfumery component guayak (guaiac) is produced from guaiac wood. It grows in the South America, on the coast of the Caribbean, and also in some Indian regions. The wood by itself does not sink in water because on 25% consists of resin. The essential oil of guayak tree is often used for perfumery compositions with rose, as well as an ingredient that “fixes” perfumes well. The guayak aroma by itself is associated with vanilla, flower bouquets, thick creamy and smoky woody notes. Perfumers have learned how to change floral chords in the compositions thanks to guayak. Raw raisin from this tree is rarely used in the industrial perfumery, it is more niche ingredient.
Guayak can be found in many fragrances, like Midnight Black Tea by Jo Malone, Organza by Givenchy, Armani Code A-List by Giorgio Armani and others.
Tuberose
Tuberose is one of the most expensive ingredients in the perfumery. The essential oil is harvested from plants blooming in white. Tuberose is somewhat reminiscent of the aromas of lily and hyacinth. However, in its pure form this note sounds too harsh and in high concentrations is not for everyone. On the skin of different people, it tends to open up in different ways, the main thing is to avoid too much tuberose. Usually all floral and oriental compositions include this ingredient. Perfumers like to combine tuberose with more delicate ingredients, to make aroma more soft and pleasant.
You will surely recognize tuberose in the perfumes Flora by Gucci Gracious Tuberose by Gucci, 5th Avenue by Elizabeth Arden, Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain.
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